HAVEN / REGAL Shoe & Co. Spring 2025

Tradition Reinvented: The HAVEN / REGAL Shoe & Co. Tyrolean Shoes

Founded in 1880, REGAL Shoe & Co. is a cornerstone of Japan’s footwear legacy. Originally focused on military boots, the brand introduced Goodyear welt construction to Japan and became known for crafting durable, authentic leather shoes. Today, production continues in its Ichikawa, Chiba factory, where REGAL Shoe & Co. honours its heritage through meticulous craftsmanship and purposeful design.

Our collaboration reflects shared values of material integrity and enduring design. Together, we revisit the Tyrolean—a rugged alpine classic with a moc toe, Norwegian welt, and lugged sole. Reimagined through HAVEN’s lens, the silhouette features subtle refinements and functional upgrades. The upper combines smooth, shrink, and suede cowhide leathers—engineered to meet GORE-TEX® standards. A Vibram® MegaGrip outsole provides traction and durability across varied conditions.

Available online and in-stores Friday, May 29th at 10AM PST.

Goodyear Welt Construction

Manufactured in REGAL Shoe & Co.'s flagship factory in Ichikawa, Chiba, the process begins with Goodyear welt construction—a time-tested method revered for its durability and longevity. The upper, insole, and welt are joined by a precise stitch, creating a stable foundation that is both robust and repairable.

A cork filler is placed between the insole and outsole, molding to the foot over time for personalized comfort. The stitched construction—unlike glued methods—ensures the outsole can be replaced without compromising the integrity of the shoe. This technique enhances both resilience and longevity, allowing the shoes to adapt and improve with wear.

Form and Function in Balance

Upper-making begins with precise cutting of each leather panel, followed by detailed stitching to form the shoe’s shell. Reinforced elements like the mudguard offer extra structure and weather protection, bridging form with function.

Next, the lasting process brings shape and tension to the design. The upper is carefully stretched and molded over a wooden last, creating the shoe’s final form. This step is crucial for achieving a comfortable, contoured fit, and sets the stage for lasting comfort and wearability.

Securing the Foundation

Sole-stitching, or Sokonui, binds the welted upper to the ribbed insole. This hidden stitch locks the core structure in place, ensuring a firm connection between upper and sole.

This stage is where the Goodyear welt becomes fully functional—allowing the shoe to hold its form, withstand daily wear, and offer long-term reparability. Each stitch is a small act of precision, reinforcing the integrity of the design.

Strength in Every Stitch

Following Sokonui, the outsole is attached using a technique called Dashinui. This process binds the leather outsole, cork filler, and steel shank to the midsole using heavy waxed thread.

This secondary stitch forms the hallmark double-welted edge that defines Goodyear construction. It adds not only visual character but structural strength—offering both stability and flex underfoot. Built for hard wear, the shoe’s layered construction enhances shock absorption while maintaining support.

Refinement and Final Touches

In the final stages, the outsole edges are sanded and ground in a process known as Kobakezuri. This step evens out the layered construction and smooths the profile for a clean, finished appearance.

Each pair is then brushed and polished by hand. Eyelets are inserted, insoles are embossed, and every detail is checked before packaging. The result is a refined, utilitarian Tyrolean shoe—crafted with care, built for the everyday, and reflective of a shared pursuit of enduring quality.

Director: Norihisa Hayashi | Producer: Nick Roethel | Photographer / Videographer: Akitake Kuwabara

Copy: Samuel Gunton

Special Thanks: Kounosuke Morita

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